in search of the spectacular
What does a master distiller look for when sampling a cask IN THE warehouse? In the run-up to our fifty Under £50 series legendary master distiller Billy Walker tells us how to swirl, sniff and sip like an expert
Billy Walker has spent hours and hours picking his way through The GlenAllachie’s warehouses in the last few years, sampling pretty much every one of the 50,000-or-so casks that are maturing there. Only the very best make it to the lab to be considered for inclusion in a release.
“By the time they get to the lab, we’ve travelled the journey with these casks and are pretty confident we know what to expect from each,” says Billy. “We’re looking for the core of samples that will meet our high expectations, as well as those that are truly spectacular. We know we won’t encounter many disappointments, but if something isn’t delivering quite as we’d like it to it won’t be included.”
For every release, Billy’s team prepares a pilot; a precise replica of the intended vatting that has been measured to specific ratios, sometimes consisting of liquid from more than 100 different casks. So what exactly does Billy look for in a potential release, and how can his expert opinion help you?
1. Swirl
“First, hold the glass to the light. Is the liquid dark – a rich mahogany like this 15 year old – or lighter?” says Billy. “A whisky’s colour is a direct consequence of a distillery’s wood management – the casks it has been matured in. Our releases have no chill filtration and no unnatural colouring.”
2. Sniff
“Nose the whisky several times. An organoleptic expert will say you should breathe in through your nose and mouth at the same time to get the full experience. I already know what aromatic characteristics I’m expecting to find: here it is heather honey, butterscotch, vanilla, probably a hint of orange peel, definitely dark chocolate and mocha, and maybe a bit of almond. I am expecting all these, so my mind is searching for them. Are they all there? Is it rich or perhaps a little thin? We absolutely don’t want it to be thin!”
3. Sip
“Then move on to the taste which is, frankly, much more important than the nose. Use the front, back and middle of your tongue. What is the mouth feel? Is it full? Are all the characteristics long lasting and deep? Do they continue all the way down? What can you taste? Again, I will be expecting certain flavours – honey, butterscotch, vanilla, orange peel, ginger, maybe some plums, damsons, Christmas cake, dark chocolate, mocha…
“All of these descriptors mean something to me but they may not mean the same to you, and that’s why tasting and nosing is very complicated. I might say vanilla, for example, and you might say treacle. There’s treacle here for sure because of the virgin casks which have had a medium char.”
4. Sip (again)
“Go back and taste again. What are you getting now? The best time to taste is in the morning when your palate is fresh, as is your body and your mind. It is particularly important that your mind is fresh because your taste buds are sending messages to your brain. If your brain’s active, you’ll get the most from the experience. It will be different if you taste later in the day, and indeed, depending on what you’ve recently eaten.”
